36mm Swap Hubs / Small Brake 1992-2000 Honda Civic / 4x100mm / 240mm (9.4") Brake Rotor / 38mm I.D. Wheel Bearing

TRONICWORKZ 36MM SWAP SPINDLES ARE THE PERFECT SOLUTION FOR YOUR HIGH POWERED ENGINE SWAPS. MADE TO FIT OEM BIG SPLINED AXLES WHICH ARE PROVEN TO HANDLE HIGH HORSEPOWERED VEHICLES THROUGH THE TOUGHEST CONDITIONS. UTILIZES OEM WHEEL BEARING AND OEM BRAKE ROTOR MOUNTING DIMENSIONS FOR A TRUE BOLT-ON DESIGN. CNC MACHINED OUT OF HIGH STRENGTH STEEL AND HAVE THE OPTION OF TITANIUM EXTENDED WHEEL STUDS.

SOLD IN PAIRS

Specifications:

Additional Information:

Spindle Nut Size: 36mm
Wheel Bearing I.D.: 38MM
Brake Rotor Size: 240MM (9.456")
Wheel Bolt Pattern: 4 X 100
Side: LH+RH
Wheel Stud Length: 2.50"
Wheel Stud Thread: M12 X 1.5
Quantity: Sold In Pairs

Guaranteed Fitments:

36mm SWAP SPINDLE: 92-00 CIVIC (240mm Brake Disc, 38mm Wheel Bearing

Fits:

1992-2000 Honda Civic models with 240mm (9.4") diameter brake rotors and 38mm I.D. wheel bearings

1992-2000 Civics left Honda's factories with two hub sizes. OE “Big Brake” (10.3" diameter rotor) Civics shared the same hub, knuckle, and 43mm I.D. wheel bearing with 1994-2001 4-lug Acura Integras. OE “Small Brake” (9.4" diameter rotor) Civics came with a smaller hub, a smaller knuckle, and a smaller 38mm I.D. wheel bearing. It is not always possible to determine hub size based on the vehicle's trim level, so the easiest way to confirm which Tronicworkz hubs to order is by measuring the diameter of the factory brake rotors. If the vehicle has an aftermarket brake kit, then the only way to know hub size is to measure the wheel bearing or hub itself.

Wheel stud options:
OE Honda Stud: 90113-SM1-005
ARP 1.85" Long Stud (4pk): 100-7709

ARP 2.85" Long Stud (4pk): 100-7711

Axle Lengths:

It is critical to use proper length axles for the chassis and transmission utilized. There are several companies making specific "36mm" axles already built to the proper lengths. However, if you are able to score some premium OE Honda/Acura axles from a salvage yard, below are some combinations we have verified (We do recommend using only original equipment Honda/Acura axles, as their joints are far stronger than the generic auto parts store axles. Try searching car-part.com to view a database of salvage yard inventory across the country).

EG/EK/DC2 K Swap Axle Options:

Option #1 - One USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S Driver Side Axle + One USDM 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si Passenger Side Axle (most ideal length)

Option #2 - One USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S Driver Side Axle + One USDM 1997-2001 Honda Prelude Base Driver Side Axle (slightly shorter than ideal length, but still within specifications)

Option #3 - One USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S Driver Side Axle + One USDM 1997-2001 Honda CRV Driver Side Axle (slightly longer than ideal length, but still within specifications)

Option #4 - One pair of USDM 2002-2006 Acura RSX Type S Axles (Driver + Passenger Side) with inboard joints swapped between the pair

Option #5 - One pair of USDM 2006-2011 Honda Civic Si Axles (Driver + Passenger Side) with inboard joints swapped between the pair

Option #6 - One pair of USDM 1997-2001 Honda Prelude Base Axles (Driver + Passenger Side) with inboard joints swapped between the pair

Options #4, #5, and #6 require the inboard joints to be swapped between the pairs of axles listed. This joint swap effectively adjusts (corrects) the axle lengths, and is mandatory to avoid issues. To perform an inboard joint swap: (1) Take one pair of axles mentioned above. (2) Remove (or cut) the large boot clamps on the inboard joints. (3) Slide the inboard joints off from each axle without disturbing the tripod bearings (hold axles vertically and lift joints straight upward). (4) Re-install the inboard joints to the other respective axle (i.e., move the male inboard joint to the original female axle; move the female inboard joint to the original male axle). (5) Pop the boots back into position on the joints and re-secure original boot clamps or install new boot clamps. You can find boot clamps at most auto parts stores that do not need any form of special tool in order to re-secure the boots to each joint (Beck Arnley: 103-0001).